Dekalb Avenue runs through the heart of Fort Greene, a Brooklyn neighborhood known for its vibrancy, culture, and eclectic charm. Each corner is decorated with a dimly lit restaurant, each brownstone more picturesque than the last. A weathered gray sign bearing the letters R-O-M-A-N-S in faded paint seems the shyest of the bunch. Perched slightly back from the sidewalk, ROMAN’S entrance is subtle: a simple picture of rustic metal chairs that spill out onto the busy Brooklyn pavement. The bus stop right outside is not stopping anyone from keeping their reservation. It’s almost 8 p.m. on a January evening; the wind keeps people inside, comfortably awaiting their food — the cozy candles radiating warmth through the glass at the front.
Customers crowd each table, and the atmosphere is a mesh between fine dining and a speakeasy. The sound from each table overlaps with the new jazz from the invisible speakers overhead, creating a symphony. The tile collages on the walls and the mismatched chandeliers match the food’s young authenticity. It’s the Brooklyn atmosphere that seems to attract people, and it’s the food that brings them back. A group of friends laugh over a bottle of natural wine and sourdough batard, escaping the January chill or the next inevitable Monday. The waiters zip through tables carefully suggesting dishes and ensuring short waits. I sit at the bar. Not even 10 seconds later, the bartender welcomes me with conversation. It’s rare to feel at home in a completely alien environment, but that’s how it felt at Roman’s.
Stepping through the square hallway and to the hostess, I escaped the cold and left behind any lingering thoughts I had in the back of my mind outside.
The short, ever-changing menu reflects the restaurant’s use of local and fresh ingredients; they bake their own bread and use meat from their own butcher shop. I visited the Fort Greene Farmers’ Market on Saturday morning and waited in the 10-minute line for bread by the “She Wolf Bakery,” which is featured at ROMAN’S.
Diners glance at the chalkboard drink menu, happy to try creative specials. The dishes often feature unique flavor pairings that bring a fresh feeling to every date night or friendly gathering even as customers return. The fava bean, with spinach and olive oil is a Roman’s classic that has stayed on the menu for months and is an amazing dip for the batard. Each dish is an invitation to step out of one’s culinary comfort zone without making customers feel uncomfortable.
The friendly staff moves with a kind of unchoreographed precision. A waiter approaches a nearby table, carefully balancing a plate of handmade pasta. The waiters glide through the space with practiced ease, refilling glasses, clearing plates, and sharing a laugh or two with the guests. Their presence is a subtle but integral part of the experience, grounding the restaurant’s lively atmosphere with a sense of calm professionalism. It’s clear that they take pride in their work, and their enthusiasm is contagious. The dishes arrive with a flourish, their rich aroma filling the air.
The diners pause, their conversation momentarily suspended as they savor the first bites. The expressions shift to delight as the table erupts in murmurs of approval. At ROMAN’S, dining is not just about sustenance; it’s an experience, an opportunity to slow down and immerse oneself in the moment. The air is tinged with the faint scent of espresso and citrus, an intoxicating blend that seems to encapsulate the essence of the evening.
As the hours pass, Roman’s transforms once again, this time taking on a cozier, more intimate energy. The sound of cars outside slowly fades away and the sound of tables talking lowers just as the kitchen clatter comes to an end. The tone changes as desserts arrive and people depart. The faces of the diners, now rosy from laughter and perhaps a second or third glass of wine, glow warmly in the candlelight. Conversations continue and become softer, more reflective. There’s a sense of connection here, not just between the people seated at the same table, but among all those sharing the space.
Outside, streetlights flicker on one by one, casting a warm amber glow on the pavement. The chattering of ROMAN’S spills out onto the sidewalk, marrying the more distant sounds of voices from passersby. Dekalb Street, ever-busy, now takes on an almost dreamlike energy. It feels like the very neighborhood is welcoming the night — the distinctive mix of arts, culture, and community shines right through.
Inside, diners linger. Nobody is hurrying to leave, truly; ROMAN’S is the sort of place that rather encourages you to stick around a bit. At the bar, a couple engages the bartender in conversation about possible after-dinner drinks. An older man, seated alone, reads a paperback, dog-eared, while he eats his dessert, a rich olive oil cake with apples and crème fraîche.
A group of young artists across the room engage in animated conversation about their latest projects, sketching ideas on napkins and sharing inspiration. There is energy in the room that is infectious, a good reminder that Fort Greene has been a haven for creative souls for decades.
Busy, but never in a rush, the staff glides through the space smoothly, refilling glasses, clearing plates, and sharing a laugh or two with the guests. Their nature is an important underpinning for the restaurant’s lively atmosphere, intertwining calmness and professionalism. They obviously take huge pleasure in what they are doing, and their spirit permeates everything.
No sooner has the clock struck nine than it seems that quite suddenly that ROMAN’S found its nighttime rhythm. The cacophony of laughter and chatter quieted down, but there are occasional bursts of mirth. Outside, the city’s sounds still resonate, but their timbre has turned mellow, a softer background score to the action happening on the insides of the restaurant’s walls. For the remaining guests, night seems to be endless; they feel galaxies away from the world outside.
Its not just the the rich meats or scrumptuous desserts that make ROMAN’S noteworthy, but the ambiance inside the restaurant that encapsulates Fort Greene as a whole. The simplest home style of the dishes and environment transfers guests into a nostalgic trance. The flickering candles, aromatic scents, and sound of laughter create the ideal night out.
The short, ever-changing menu reflects the restaurant’s use of local and fresh ingredients; they bake their own bread and use meat from their own butcher shop.