My earliest memory was when I was around four years old. I crouched beside my grandmother as she washed cabbages in a red basin, marveling at her handiwork, her hands deftly pressing salt crystals into the leaves’ crevices. Every few minutes, she’d nod approvingly at a chunk of white cabbage, which glistened with speckles of salt and water, and hand-feed it to me.
Although it’s been a while since I last participated in kimjang, the Korean tradition of making large amounts of kimchi during the later end of the fall season, these memories are the ones I cherish the most, as they are both culturally and emotionally dear to me.
Kimjang is a tradition that was most likely started under Korea’s Joseon Dynasty. The Joseon Dynasty ruled Korea from 1392 until the Japanese annexation of Korea in 1910. Korea remained under Japanese rule until 1945. During this time period, the Japanese proactively suppressed Korean culture, going as far as to ban many Koreans from speaking their national language.
Despite that, however, the kindling flames of tradition for kimjang remained alive, and to this day, kimjang remains well integrated in Korean culture.
The Historical Roots of Kimjang
The act of kimjang actually derived from necessity, as it was difficult in the mountainous regions of Joseon to find sources of food. Although kimjang originated as a survival tactic for those of lower classes, even the Korean royal family made kimchi. The only key difference was that the royal family used ingredients that were a lot more strictly regulated when compared to kimchi of lower classes (e.g. farmers and merchants). In other words, due to the abundance of resources in the royal family’s garden, they were able to not only consume a diverse variety of kimchi, but also make sure that the flavors were far more rich than that of kimchi from an average Korean farmer.
The taste of kimchi, a flavorful dish composed of cabbage or other root vegetables, differed by the region in which it was created as well. The ingredients put into this fermented dish often varies by region, and every family has their own “secret recipe” when participating in kimjang. According to Great British Chefs, “Monasteries prepare vegan kimchi, while in the seafood-rich regions of the southern coast, fresh oysters and octopus are popular additions. The broth used to make the seasoning paste is infused with a wide variety of seafood like dried anchovies (myeolchi), dried herrings (kipori), dried baby herrings (seulchi) and dried pollack (bugeo). Some regions add nuts, black sesame and pine nuts, whilst others add chestnuts and dried red dates.”
Kimchi, while known for its many variations, is usually simply a fermented vegetable made with gochugaru, which is Korean chili powder. However, again, as there are many variations, there is also white kimchi, which does not contain gochugaru. White kimchi is also referred to as ‘baek-kimchi.”
Contemporary white kimchi is a product developed by Japanese chefs in Korea during the 1980s. Of course, there are other kinds of white kimchi. White kimchi actually used to be the original form of kimchi, before chili had been introduced to Korea. White kimchi is popular for its tangy taste – popular for its subtle sour tinges, as well as refreshing and cool texture.
However, while normal kimchi is suitable for storage, white kimchi is quick to ferment and should be consumed quickly.
Some popular types of kimchi are cabbage-based kimchi (bae-chu kimchi), cucumber kimchi (oh-ee sobagi), as well as perilla leaf-based kimchi (kkaenip kimchi).
As previously mentioned, prior to the introduction of chili to Korea, white kimchi was the only kind of kimchi available. However, when the Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 (Imjinwaeran) occurred, the Korean people were introduced to chilis. Of course, while these chilis weren’t technically integrated into kimchi until the 19th century, their introduction was still incredibly important to the cultural food.
Chili was important to kimchi as it provided a way to preserve the cabbages, cucumbers, and perilla leaves. At the time, Korea had reduced access to salt due to the Japanese invasion. There were many destructions of salt farms, as well as blockade and disruption of trade routes. This is why chili was so essential to kimchi; it provided the opportunity for Koreans to preserve food during the cold winter seasons.
Traditionally, kimchi was made through fermentation. Pots of kimchi were either buried in the ground or hung in wells to preserve them, as well as keep the kimchi cool. There were also ‘water kimchis,’ which would use weaker brines instead and would often exclusively be made from radishes.
Changes in Kimjang Over Time
Because kimchi was such an essential part of Korean cuisine, the court ladies, as well as the crown princesses of Korea would often be mobilized to participate in kimjang. The same applied for Korea’s villages. Until the 1970s, village kimjangs were practically events celebrated annually.
However, due to westernization of diet, technological innovations, as well as generalizations of eating out, the amount of kimchi consumed in households has decreased. Due to refrigerators, there is no need to bury the pots of kimchi (frequently referred to as onggi) in the ground. There are also a lot of commercialized kimchi now, so many people see a lack of reason to participate in kimjang. These people, who gave up on making kimchi and buy it instead, were dubbed as the ‘Gimpojok.’
However, regardless of whether kimjang has lost significance in Korean culture, kimchi is still relevant to the average Korean diet. The annual per capita consumption of kimchi in 2017 has shown to be at least 39.9 kg.
Oftentimes, kimchi is served as a side dish (banchan) with steamed rice, soup, and a salted dish. However, kimchi is so integrated into everyday meals that there is a common saying in Korean stating, “if you have kimchi and rice, you have a meal.”
Kimchi is a symbol of identity and nationalism, a common element that is known and experienced by every Korean. In a 2006 poll of Korean respondents, kimchi was identified by 22.1% as a key symbol of national culture, second only to South Korea’s national flag, the Taegeukgi, at 34.9%.
Most often, kimjang occurs after Chuseok, which is the Korean harvest festival, as well as Seol-lal, which is the Korean New Years. When the Queen of England visited Korea in 1999, she was taken to attend a banquet in which she was able to witness kimjang.
Traditions Surrounding Kimjang
There are also traditions after partaking in kimjang. Although the process is incredibly tiring, as each cabbage can weigh up to 2kg, it is still a delightful occasion. Once all the kimchi is finished and all there is left to do is wait for the fermentation process, it is traditional to drink makgeolli (sparkling rice wine), and eat suyuk (boiled meat, usually made with pork) with baechu-geotjeori (fresh kimchi) as a side dish.
Another traditional accompaniment to kimchi-making is bossam, a dish of boiled pork served with fresh kimchi. Bossam is often enjoyed on the same day as the kimchi is prepared, offering a flavorful reward for the hard work involved. Unlike traditional kimchi, which is left to ferment over time, bossam kimchi is meant to be eaten fresh and spoils quickly, making it ideal for immediate consumption.
While most modern diners associate bossam with freshly seasoned cabbage or radish kimchi served alongside boiled pork or pig’s feet, its origins tell a richer story. The original bossam kimchi, believed to have originated in Kaesong, was a delicacy made by wrapping radish greens, pine nuts, jujubes, and chestnuts in a cloth. This intricate preparation reflects the care and creativity behind Korea’s traditional cuisine.
The bossam kimchi commonly served at bossam and jokbal restaurants today differs significantly from its traditional counterpart. This version is made by lightly brining cabbage in salt water and seasoning it with a mix of raw radish, red pepper powder, fish sauce, and wheat flour paste. Left to wilt slightly, the kimchi is ready to complement meat dishes rather than serve as a standalone staple. Its short shelf life and fresh, lightly fermented nature make it a side dish meant to be consumed quickly.
Commercially sold bossam kimchi often includes added sugars, such as cider or starch syrup, to enhance its sweetness. However, these additions can cause the kimchi to spoil rather than properly ferment over time. For this reason, it is best to order only as much bossam kimchi as you can consume within a short period.
If bossam kimchi has been stored for too long, check its freshness by inspecting its smell and texture. Spoiled bossam kimchi may emit a sour odor or develop small grains on its surface, indicating that it is time to discard it.
As mentioned, there is no proper way to make kimchi. However, there is a general procedure followed by most families. In this article, I will discuss about the procedure for the most popular type of kimchi: cabbage kimchi. The recipe that I have described below is my grandmother’s recipe, which my mother vaguely told me about. I myself have not been able to partake in kimjang season this year, but this is the general procedure that I follow whenever I am given the opportunity to do so.
How to Make Kimchi
Making kimchi begins with preparing the main ingredient: Napa cabbage. The cabbage is quartered lengthwise, the core removed, and each leaf generously salted. This step draws out moisture from the cabbage, which is essential for the fermentation process. The salted cabbage is left to rest for 2–3 hours or up to a few days, with occasional turning to ensure even salting. Afterward, the cabbage is thoroughly rinsed to remove excess salt and set aside to drain.
While the cabbage rests, the seasoning paste is prepared. This vibrant mixture typically includes garlic, ginger, Korean chili flakes (gochugaru), fish sauce, sugar, and, for added depth of flavor, fermented shrimp or anchovy sauce. For those seeking a vegetarian option, plant-based substitutes for fish sauce can be used. To enhance texture and flavor, julienned vegetables such as carrots, radishes, and green onions are often added to the mix.
Once the cabbage is ready, the spicy seasoning paste is applied. Each leaf is coated meticulously, with the paste being massaged into every fold to ensure the flavors are evenly distributed. This step is not just about seasoning but also about ensuring the fermentation process will be uniform.
The seasoned cabbage is then packed tightly into a clean, airtight container. It is important to press down to eliminate any air pockets, as this helps with fermentation. The container is left at room temperature for 1–5 days, depending on the desired level of tanginess. For those who prefer a stronger flavor, longer fermentation is recommended.
After the initial fermentation, the kimchi is transferred to the refrigerator, where it will continue to ferment slowly over time. The cool environment deepens the flavor and preserves the kimchi, making it a staple that can be enjoyed for weeks, months, and even years (with kimchi aged more than 6 months being called mukeunji).
There’s no single way to make kimchi because it is a highly versatile dish rooted in Korean culinary tradition, regional diversity, and personal preferences. Different regions in Korea have their own unique styles of kimchi, shaped by local ingredients and climate. Coastal areas often incorporate seafood like fermented anchovies or shrimp, while inland regions rely more on plant-based seasonings. Seasonal availability also plays a significant role in shaping recipes. In the summer, lighter, water-based varieties like “nabak kimchi” are popular, while the winter months bring heartier versions prepared in bulk during “kimjang,” the traditional kimchi-making season.
Ingredient flexibility further contributes to the diversity of kimchi. While Napa cabbage is the most iconic base, other vegetables like radish, cucumber, or even fruits are used to create unique variations. The seasoning paste is equally customizable, with options for spice levels, salt content, and additional ingredients like garlic, ginger, and fermented seafood. Fermentation preferences add another layer of variability, with some people favoring a short fermentation for a fresh, crisp taste, and others allowing a longer process for a sour, pungent profile.
Cultural evolution has also influenced the way kimchi is made today. Modern adaptations cater to dietary restrictions and personal creativity, with vegetarian and vegan versions replacing fish sauce or fermented seafood with soy sauce, kelp, or other plant-based alternatives. Ultimately, kimchi is as much an art as it is a science, offering endless opportunities for customization while maintaining its identity as a flavorful, fermented staple of Korean cuisine.
Kimjang is far more than a seasonal tradition or culinary process — it is a bridge connecting past and present, uniting families and communities through shared labor and cultural pride. From the deeply rooted history of kimchi to the evolving ways it is made, this practice reflects the adaptability and resilience of Korean culture, even in the face of Westernization. As globalization continues to influence cuisines and traditions worldwide, kimjang reminds us of the value of preserving and celebrating our heritage. Ultimately, the spirit of kimjang is about more than kimchi — it is about connection, creativity, and the flavors that bind generations together.
Ultimately, kimchi is as much an art as it is a science, offering endless opportunities for customization while maintaining its identity as a flavorful, fermented staple of Korean cuisine.