South of the smallest state in the country, surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean, lies a whimsical island of great charm. Block Island, Rhode Island, is a peaceful destination that is most popular in summer — but remains cheery during every season. For over 15 years, my summer only truly begins when I step foot on the warm, golden sand; this is the moment that I know I am home again. The nostalgic salty, fresh smell of the island and the ocean transports me back to worriless childhood days. No matter how hectic life gets, one ticket to sail away on the Block Island Ferry is always the perfect excuse for a getaway.
The island, covering approximately 10 square miles, was originally named Manisses, meaning “Island of the Little God,” a name given by the Native American tribe, the Narragansetts, that first inhabited it. By 1661, colonizers from Rhode Island and Massachusetts settled on the land that was previously encountered by Italian explorer Verrazano during his explorations in 1524. The island was named Block Island after Dutch explorer Adriaen Block who landed there in 1614. Nearly half of the island is protected by the Block Island Conservancy, which helps to preserve its natural beauty and protect wildlife.
Visitors can fly to the island, landing at the Block Island Airport, but the most popular way to reach the island is a peaceful journey on a ferry from Point Judith, Rhode Island, New London, Connecticut, or Montauk, New York. The trip from Point Judith on the traditional ferry is about an hour long but feels shorter, as the ride guarantees relaxation to clear the mind before spirited travel ahead. On the ferry, there is a concession stand where I recommend trying Granny Squibb’s organic iced tea, created in Providence, Rhode Island, and sold throughout New England.
The top deck of the ferry provides a scenic, picturesque view that is only an introduction to the island’s sensational beauty. With the wind blowing through your hair, the whisper of the breeze creeping in your ear and the sniff of the bittersweet, pungent, salty smell blended in the air, the ferry ride marks the start of the journey ahead. The ferry ride begins with a loud horn, but from then on, the only sounds featured are the electric brush of the waves and the panting of the dogs who enjoy lying on the top deck, sticking their tongues out and breathing in the fresh air.
Once you get off the ferry at Old Harbor, the first stop is renting a bike. The most prevalent form of transport around the island is biking, with bike and moped rental spots available right off the ferry. Despite the few sizable hills that may feel monstrous in the moment, biking around the island is quick and manageable. The exhilarating ride down the hill makes the uphill worth the effort.
For the needed energy to begin the day, a stop at Payne’s Donuts is a must. A quick bike ride from the Old Harbor, the donut truck with outdoor seating has been around since 1963. Their doughy, old-fashioned-style donuts are an island classic, offered in three flavors: plain, sugar and cinnamon. An avid Block Island visitor, Ben Ro, said, “I enjoy taking a morning bike ride to Payne’s Donuts to start my day off with warm donuts fresh out of the oven. My favorite donut at Payne’s is the cinnamon donut, but all of them are delicious.”
Leading the way to the next stop is a family of ducks that live in the nearby pond and enjoy taking a quick dip to cool off. Next to Payne’s Donuts is a spot for paddle boarding and kayaking. Lined up beside the entrance of the pond are stacks of bright-colored boats and paddles of all kinds. The water is filled with unique shells and rocks that are only a quick dive away from being the perfect souvenir.
Just down the road from Payne’s Donuts toward New Harbor is the Block Island Maritime Institute (BIMI), founded in 1997. Students who lived on the island bought the land around Great Salt Pond and created BIMI to prevent it from being sold to a developer. BIMI is another example of Block Island’s pleasant atmosphere, commemorating the island’s natural beauty and providing educational activities for the public. In the summer, tanks of marine animals collected from around the island are on display for public viewing. There are tanks of multiple fish species and touch tanks filled with crabs, starfish, squids and more. The sea creatures collected are released back into the ocean at the end of the summer.
Perched at opposite ends of the coast, standing strong and tall, are two of the island’s most notable landmarks: the North and Southeast Lighthouse. Both lighthouses are open to the public. If you are lucky — when visiting the North Light — you may come across a retired lighthouse keeper and Jimmy, a golden retriever who enjoys roaming around the area and greeting the visitors he encounters. Inside the lighthouse is a small museum with exhibits about the North Light’s history and a collection of figurines of different lighthouses from all over the country.
When traveling to the North Light — past the area to park bikes, mopeds and cars — visitors have to walk about half a mile on a patch of rocks and sand, although they are sure to be engrossed by the beauty of walking alongside the beach. During the walk, keep a close eye out for a couple of seals who occasionally pop their heads out of the water close to shore to greet the visitors. Towards the very northern edge of the island, if you walk another quarter mile past the North Light where the Block Island Sound meets the Atlantic Ocean, another group of seals frequently enjoys relaxing under the sun, which people can observe up close.
Resting on the top of the Mohegan Bluffs is the highest elevated lighthouse in all of New England, the Southeast Lighthouse that was built in 1873 and moved to its current location in 1993. Block Island was a target for many shipwrecks, so the lighthouse was built to prevent any crashes. The Southeast Lighthouse was a beacon of hope for many sailors when faced with the chaos of Block Island’s water, guiding the way with a powerful light. Over time, the lighthouse gradually became closer to the edge of the bluffs due to erosion. Originally, there were plans to demolish the lighthouse, but locals banded together creating a campaign to rescue and move the lighthouse. Luckily, the campaign was successful and in 1993 the lighthouse was moved further from the edge, remaining in a sturdy position to this day. The lighthouse and its museum are open to the public during the summer from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Standing 200 feet above the beach, the breathtaking first glimpse of the Mohegan Bluffs is a worthwhile sight of raw beauty. The climb down is slightly demanding with 141 wooden steps trailing a pathway toward the bottom. The further down you walk, the more intense the sounds of the waves pounding against the surface become, intimidating many surfers and swimmers. The bluffs are made up of clay cliffs that stretch across the island, surrounding the ocean with waves that are some of the biggest on the island. The beach is not very crowded because the bluffs are isolated from the rest of the island, providing a peaceful place to relax. “A visit to Block Island is not complete without taking in the truly awe-inspiring beauty of the Mohegan Bluffs,” said Jody Kaplan, a regular visitor to the island. “The Bluffs also showcase how important it is to preserve this amazing natural environment. This past summer the steps down to the Bluffs were closed due to erosion. I treasure my visits to the island and hope that future generations will have the opportunity to view this remarkable natural landmark.”
Located about a mile past the Mohegan Bluffs, is what used to be a plain, boring rock. However, this rock now represents one of the island’s many traditions that visitors and residents enjoy partaking in. This tradition began in 1962 when a teenage couple, Wendy and Eddie Northup, painted a rock on Halloween as a harmless prank. For over 50 years, many have continued the practice of painting over the rock, which receives a fresh coat of paint weekly (sometimes hourly), as anyone can paint what they wish. The Painted Rock shows the wholesomeness of the island’s community and how one rock can connect so many people.
A day on Block Island would not be complete without a relaxing few hours on the beach. My personal favorite is Fred Benson Town Beach. It is great for kids of all ages; for the most part, the tide does not get too high and boogie boards, chairs, and umbrellas are available to rent. The entrance to reach the beach features a concession stand that is another location of Rebecca’s Seafood, bathrooms, changing rooms and showers, making a day at the beach as effortless as possible.
With such a packed day, a plentiful lunch is a requirement. Rebecca’s Seafood in the Old Harbor, which serves all types of seafood such as clam cakes, clam chowder and lobster rolls, and only accepts payment by cash, is a great spot to relax and fuel up for the rest of the day. Consisting of a rustic little shack and benches for outdoor seating, Rebecca’s is a peaceful and casual dining area.
Some of the freshest lobster rolls can be found at The Cracked Mug down by Payne’s Dock in New Harbor. With tender lobster that is sweet and juicy, offering a slight salty hint of the ocean, these lobster rolls are an ideal way to experience a New England classic.
On a hot summer day, creamy ice cream from Aldo’s soothes the body. Aldo’s is a family business that was established in 1970 by Aldo Leone who transformed an abandoned fire station into a friendly atmosphere with fresh baked goods. The business was then passed down to Aldo’s sons, Aldo and Bobby, who started serving homemade ice cream and gelato inspired by the kind they used to eat in their childhood. To this day, the business is still run by the Leone family who prides themselves on their homemade delights made of high quality ingredients.
Outside of Aldo’s is a cart serving a Rhode Island classic, Del’s Lemonade, a refreshing treat and unique for its slushy texture. The best way to drink Del’s is by sipping and shaking it around so the ice melts. Most importantly, do not use a straw as it ruins the entire Del’s experience and is a clear indication that you are definitely not a native Rhode Islander.
Before leaving the island, stop by the charming local shops to find a unique Block Island souvenir or gift or a sweatshirt for the breezy ferry ride home. Along the Old Harbor’s main street are a handful of tourist shops with Block Island apparel like the Star Department Store. There are also cute boutiques like Bonnie & Clyde, Glass Onion, Mad Hatter, Salty Dog, Peppered Cat, Solstice and Blvck Market. Every business on the island is a locally owned small business, making it a one-of-a-kind destination.
From the family-owned businesses to the many island traditions, Block Island is very much a close-knit community filled with warmth and support. The island thrives on genuine care and a sense of togetherness, where every person on the island loves it with their entire heart. After the first trip to the island, you’ll be left wanting more. So when the moment is right, I very much encourage you to sail away on the Block Island ferry and leave your troubles behind.
Block Island thrives on genuine care and a sense of togetherness, where every person on the island loves it with their entire heart.