The legendary Philosopher’s Stone is the mythical alchemical substance believed to be capable of transmuting base metals into gold or silver, and the potential ingredient for the elixir of life allowing for rejuvenation and immortality.
Although no such substance exists in the world today, there exists a substance that too was believed to hold great medical properties. Just by the name alone, you may think that the origin of ambergris is similar to the formation of amber, fossilized tree resin. However, its origins are far more complex and unexpected; ambergris is formed in the digestive tract of sperm whales.
Ambergris has also captured the imagination of environmentalists and conservationists, as it provides a glimpse into the complex lives of sperm whales and the intricate ecosystems of the ocean. The creation of ambergris is still not fully understood, and how it forms inside the whale’s digestive system continues to be a subject of research. Some researchers suggest that the whale produces ambergris as a way to protect itself from the sharp beaks of squid, its primary food source, which may not be fully digested. Others believe that it’s clumps of indigestible squid beaks that the whale vomits out, or clumps of feces. Other scientists believe that ambergris is formed when clumps of squid beaks cause a blockage in the whale’s intestines. The blockage grows bigger and bigger as the fecal matter collects. In some cases, the intestine ruptures, ultimately resulting in the whale’s death. Now the clump of feces and squid beaks roll around the ocean, weathering down, until the clump becomes ambergris.
A fascinating aspect of ambergris is its longevity. It is known to last for centuries, with some pieces of ambergris found on beaches being over a hundred years old, noticeable by the sweet earthly scent that it acquires as it ages. In fact, there are historical records of ambergris being used in perfumes, incense, and even food in the Middle Ages, suggesting that its appeal as a fragrance ingredient is ancient. For example, during the Bubonic Plague, plague doctors often stuffed their masks with dried flowers, herbs, as well ambergris to keep the miasma (bad air that causes illnesses) away. The ancient Egyptians burned ambergris as an incense, and the ancient Chinese referred to ambergris as “dragon’s spittle fragrance.” A recipe for Rum Shrub liqueur from the mid 19th century called for a thread of ambergris to be added to rum, almonds, cloves, cassia, and the peel of oranges in making a cocktail from The English and Australian Cookery Book.
One of the most prized qualities of ambergris is its ability to improve with age, much like fine wine or cheese. As it matures, ambergris becomes more aromatic, deepening in complexity and evolving into a smoother, subtler scent. This aging process is often compared to the way certain other rare materials, such as precious woods or resins (like the formation of amber, fossilized tree resin), enhance over time.
In the context of modern luxury, ambergris has also found its place in niche perfumery (some of which can be found here). Smaller, artisanal perfume houses have embraced the material as a way to create unique, high-end fragrances that cannot be replicated by mass-market producers. These niche brands often emphasize the craftsmanship and artistry involved in using ambergris as an ingredient, with each batch of ambergris being different, based on the particular conditions it was exposed to during its journey across the ocean.
The price ranges depending on the physical qualities, the scent and color of the ambergris. The lighter and white the ambergris is, the older and more fragrant. The colors range from black (fresh with a strong scent), dark gray (signs of oxidation), to brown (the scent is less offensive and more appealing), and finally white (the oldest form of ambergris with a pleasant scent).
In popular culture, ambergris has often been romanticized as a treasure of the sea, a symbol of opulence and mystery. Its place in literature and art further adds to its allure, with writers and artists depicting it as a valuable, almost mystical material. The sense of adventure that surrounds ambergris — its journey from whale to sea to perfumeries — has made it a captivating subject for storytellers and poets alike. In fact, some of the most famous references to ambergris come from literary works, most notably Herman Melville’s Moby-Dick, where ambergris plays a symbolic role. “Besides, amber is a hard, transparent, brittle, odorless substance, used for mouth-pieces to pipes, for beads and ornaments; but ambergris is soft, waxy, and so highly fragrant and spicy, that it is largely used in perfumery, in pastiles, precious candles, hair-powders, and pomatum. The Turks use it in cooking, and also carry it to Mecca, for the same purpose that frankincense is carried to St. Peter’s in Rome” (From Chapter 92 ‘Ambergris’ in Moby-Dick) representing both the elusive nature and the significance of the substance.
However, there are many ethical concerns regarding ambergris as a whale product as whaling practices have shifted and the threat to sperm whale populations has become a focal point of conservation efforts. The decline of whaling practices with the increasing demand for ambergris has led to a greater emphasis on finding alternative sources. The rise of synthetic ambergris (e.g., ambroxan, a chemical compound mimicking the scent of ambergris) has become a key development in the perfume industry, reducing the pressure on whale populations. While these synthetics are widely accepted and offer an environmentally friendly alternative, they are often seen as lacking the true depth and complexity of natural ambergris, leading many purists to argue that the original substance remains irreplaceable in certain fragrance formulations.
The collection of ambergris, when done responsibly, has also led to a form of “sustainable harvesting” in some areas where it is found washed up on beaches. As opposed to the controversial practice of extracting ambergris from whales (it’s illegal), finding naturally occurring ambergris provides a more ethical and environmentally friendly method of acquiring it. Some coastal communities, especially in regions like New Zealand and the Maldives, have built a cottage industry around collecting and selling ambergris that has been washed ashore, offering a livelihood to locals without harming whale populations. However, these practices are still subject to regional regulations, and the growing recognition of ambergris’ scarcity has led some governments to establish laws restricting its trade to prevent exploitation.
Despite the increasing rarity and legal restrictions (for the United States, the trade and possession of ambergris is prohibited by the Endangered Species Act of 1973) surrounding it, ambergris continues to captivate the imagination of people around the world. Its fascinating origin, complex chemical composition, and valuable role in perfumery make it one of the most coveted substances in the world. Whether appreciated for its history, its impact on the fragrance industry, or its connection to the natural world, ambergris remains a unique and enigmatic material that embodies both nature’s wild beauty and humanity’s desire to capture it.
Whether appreciated for its history, its impact on the fragrance industry, or its connection to the natural world, ambergris remains a unique and enigmatic material that embodies both nature’s wild beauty and humanity’s desire to capture it.