Italian ice is not made when you pour bright-red syrup over crushed ice, nor is it found in the metal canisters of a Mr. Softy’s. It requires a hard scoop, and layers upon layers of whipped ice and juice, before the dessert is carefully shaped into its signature dome. There is beauty in the frozen treat, and that will never change.
Italian ice, a semi-frozen treat made up of finely-shaved ice and fruit concentrates, juices, purées, or other food flavorings, has been a New York staple for decades. It was first introduced to the United States by Italian immigrants in the early 20th century, and it is derived from the Sicilian granita, with immigrants often selling this treat in the streets of cities. Thus, it has become an urban staple, saving people from the muggy city heat for decades. Italian ice represents something everlasting – the traditions and the power that immigrants have had in major metropolitan areas for years.
And inside The Lemon Ice King of Corona, Italian ice is an art.
It is nearly impossible to maintain the same old-school feel of old New York for long. There is always a new goal to achieve, a new style to catch up to, and a new audience to capture the hearts and minds of. Yet somehow, nestled in the heart of Corona, Queens, The Lemon Ice King of Corona has maintained its original style, and even menu, for the last eighty years.
In 1944, Nicola Benfaremo, an Italian immigrant, began selling Italian ice from his garage in New York City. After his son Peter Benfaremo returned from serving in World War II, they began working on the business together. In 1964, Peter and Nicola created The Lemon Ice King, where it still stands today, nestled in the corner of 108th Street and 52 Avenue in Corona. Queens. The name originated in 1947, when a customer told Peter Benfaremo, “You’re the lemon ice king.” In a 1981 interview with The New York Times, Benfaremo noted, “I thought it was as good a name as any for the store.”
Since then, not much has changed. The Italian ice store has become locally famous, with lines that stretch well past the corner of the street in the heat of summer. The store still uses the same natural ingredients – real fruit and no dairy, which may come as a surprise to some. Despite its lack of any milk products, each treat is perfectly creamy. This may be a result of its elusive recipe; since it was founded, The Lemon Ice King has never revealed the secret behind its delicious Italian ices.
To order from The Lemon Ice King, you must first approach the counter, where a brightly colored menu awaits. The current owner himself, Mike Zampino, will sometimes stand beside the fresh candied apples as you browse over three dozen flavors, all dairy-free, and some without sugar. Perhaps your eyes will linger on some of the favorites, like the classic lemon or piña colada. If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, you may even point to the peanut butter or rum raisin.
Once you get your ice in a paper cup, Zampino, or any other employee on duty that day, will plug in the money into their old-school cash register. You will hand over a five-dollar-bill (and yes, they only take cash), smile, and be on your way, digging into your sweet treat. Congratulations! You just experienced what Queens residents have loved for decades. Perhaps that is why so many people, as Zampino noted, keep coming back for more.
But that’s for you to decide.
When I first entered The Lemon Iced King, I immediately noticed how the air bloomed with the smell of tangy sugar. Metal tins filled with different flavors of Italian ice were lined side-by side against the wall in coolers, condensation sparkling over the lids. In the back, a vintage sign affirmed the store’s policy to never mix their ices together, nor ever exchange them. A breeze blew in through the cut-out opening of the store as I was asked to wait by the back.
I passed a vacant white chair, and sat by a black table. Soon after, Zampino joined me, and our interview began.
Starting with the most important question: what’s your favorite flavor of shaved ice?
My favorite flavor – it sounds boring – but my favorite’s lemon.
Why did you first decide to start working here?
It was my first job. I was in the neighborhood [Corona]. A friend of mine that was already working here actually told me there was an opening, you know, and I was fifteen years old at the time, so I guess mom and dad told me it was time to start working.
I worked around and got the job, and, been here ever since! I’ve been here between working and owning for forty-two, forty-three years?
What’s your favorite part of working here?
My favorite part was all the relationships I’ve forged, lifetime friendships with a lot of the guys. The original owner was Pete Benfaremo and the Benfaremo family. He was a boss, like a father, and a friend. All in one, and that’s the way I try being to my guys.
I mean, this is my livelihood, right? I don’t have a choice at this point, now. I get to see the kids that work for me, maybe teach them a thing or two about life, the way Peter Benfaremo taught me. And seeing the enjoyment on people’s faces when they grab an ice and actually enjoy it, and they eat it, and they smile.
What was Peter Benfaremo like?
Oh, an extremely generous guy. He liked to yell a lot; he used to sit in that chair right there in the front, behind you – the one you passed by when you came in. And the people on the outside heard the yelling, but hey, you know, that was just him yelling at the kids! He was a very generous man and a careful, nice guy.
So what has running this shop over the past couple of years taught you?
That you have to continue to keep going to stay in business nowadays, you know, with the prices and everything. The way that things are through the roof and unfortunately, to have the business I have here, I have to match prices. I guess for a lack of a better way of saying it, you want a nickel for a dime. It’s like going out to dinner and dropping a couple hundred dollars.
Do you have any favorite memories from working here?
The memories of the lifetime friendships I’ve forged are probably the biggest ones. And, obviously, Peter Benfaremo, who unfortunately is no longer with us, and my close relationship with him. He handpicked me to sell the store back in 1993 or 1994, yes.
What did he teach you about life?
Just… treat people the way you like to be treated. Along with my parents, you know, the old-school mentality. Don’t want to date myself, but I guess I’m old-school to you now!
What’s it like to run this store in the wintertime?
To run it in the winter, it’s slow. You do all your work with Mother Nature as your partner. It’s really quiet in the winter. I don’t really have to be open, but we stay open because we always have, and it’s always been like that. The hours get shorter. Summertime we’re open till midnight – 9, 10 a.m. to midnight – and as it gets colder, we start bringing it down.
What do you think people like the most about the Lemon Ice King?
I think the way it goes down generations. A lot of times, people say, “My father brought me here,” or “My grandparents brought me here,” and now they’re bringing their kids here. And the quality of the product — hopefully, they appreciate it.
Finally, is there anything you would like everyone to know?
We’re still in business, and we’re here for you. Come on down, grab an ice, and hopefully you get the satisfaction out of it that you’re looking for!
*****
Once I had concluded with my interview, I asked him if I could try the proclaimed “cult classic,” peanut butter. He obliged, and I took it graciously.
The nutty flavor, sprinkled with sweet peanut butter chips, somehow all blended together for a smooth finish. It was unorthodox, slightly savory, and as I scribbled in my notebook, “perfect.”
As Mike Zampino said, “We’re still in business, and we’re here for you. Come on down, grab an ice, and hopefully you get the satisfaction out of it that you’re looking for!”