You’ve likely seen people donning bold, glittering jewelry during celebrations like Diwali, Eid, or even casual dawaats (South Asian gatherings, usually involving a feast). These pieces, whether they are colorful bangles stacked on wrists, complex necklaces, earrings, or delicate anklets, immediately garner attention with their beauty and craftsmanship. But beyond their sparkle lies a deeper connection, one rooted in tradition, history, and cultural pride.
To many South Asians, jewelry is becoming a pathway to their culture, a way to incorporate their heritage into their lives away from home. Living away from their homelands, these pieces serve as a link to traditions passed down through generations for some young girls. They are a way to celebrate their heritage, even in spaces where it may not always feel prominent. Whether it’s the soft clinking of churis (bangles) or the regal sway of golden jhumkas (earrings), these ornaments are a source of cultural pride, allowing women to carry a piece of their roots wherever they go.
History
South Asian jewelry boasts a history as rich and intricate as the countries themselves, stretching back thousands of years. From the Indus Valley Civilization to the modern day, the region’s jewelry has evolved alongside its cultural, social, and economic transformations, reflecting the artistry, beliefs, and status of its wearers.
One of the earliest examples of South Asian jewelry dates back to the Indus Valley Civilization. Archaeological excavations at sites like Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa have uncovered necklaces, bangles, earrings, and beads crafted from gold, silver, copper, and semi-precious stones such as carnelian and lapis lazuli. These pieces were not only decorative but also believed to hold spiritual significance, often used as amulets for protection.
Jewelry during the Vedic period was deeply symbolic, often associated with religious rituals and status. Gold, considered pure and auspicious, was the material of choice for many ornaments. The use of gemstones like rubies and emeralds was linked to astrology and believed to bring good fortune and ward off evil.
The Mauryan and Gupta periods marked the golden age of Indian art and culture, and jewelry-making flourished. Gold and silver jewelry adorned with intricate filigree work, along with bejeweled crowns and ceremonial ornaments, became symbols of power and divinity. These designs reflected a blend of indigenous artistry and Greco-Roman influences brought by trade routes like the Silk Road.
The Mughal Empire left a profound impact on South Asian jewelry, bringing Persian-inspired techniques and designs. This period saw the rise of intricate kundan and meenakari work, where gemstones were set into gold with enamel backing. The Mughal emperors’ patronage of the arts led to the creation of breathtaking pieces featuring emeralds, rubies, pearls, and uncut diamonds. Jewelry was not just for adornment but also a display of wealth and power, with both men and women wearing elaborate ornaments.
During British rule, South Asian jewelry adapted to Western tastes while retaining its traditional essence. Victorian-inspired designs emerged, blending European techniques with traditional craftsmanship. This period also saw the global spread of South Asian gemstones, like Indian diamonds and Burmese rubies, which became highly sought after in Europe.
In the modern era, South Asian jewelry continues to thrive, balancing tradition with contemporary aesthetics. Heirloom pieces are treasured for their cultural significance, while modern adaptations have made traditional designs more accessible for everyday wear. Materials like gold, silver, and platinum remain popular, and traditional techniques such as jadau and polki continue to be used for festivals and weddings.
Cultures
The term “South Asian” is a small word that encapsulates thousands of cultures and identities. With 8 countries and over 4,500 ethnic groups, the subcontinent is far from homogenous.
A clear example of this diversity lies in the names we give to things. For instance, I’ve been writing the names of jewelry as I know it in Sylheti, a dialect of Bangla, which means what I call them differ even from those who speak standard Bangla. This linguistic variation highlights how deeply rooted and diverse South Asian culture is, even within shared traditions.
The term chuda is commonly used in North India, particularly among Hindi and Punjabi speakers to refer to bangles. It holds special significance in Punjabi culture, where it typically refers to a set of red and white (or ivory) bridal bangles that are an important part of wedding traditions. These bangles symbolize marriage and are often worn by brides for months after the wedding as a sign of good luck and prosperity.
In contrast, other regions in South Asia may have different names for bangles, such as churi in Hindi-Urdu, Bengali, and other related languages, or variations like churis or chooriyan in specific dialects.
Types
South Asian jewelry is incredibly diverse, with each piece carrying its own cultural and regional significance. The variety of jewelry styles and forms reflects the region’s rich heritage and artistic traditions.
South Asian jewelry is rich in history and symbolism, with each piece representing a unique aspect of culture, tradition, and identity. From the iconic bangles to the intricate headpieces worn by brides, jewelry continues to play an integral role in personal expression and ceremonial rites.
Bangles are among the most iconic pieces of jewelry worn by South Asian women. These delicate adornments are often worn in large sets, particularly by married women. Churis are colorful bangles commonly seen at weddings and festivals, while Kada refers to a single, thick bangle worn by both men and women as a symbol of strength and resilience. The Shankha-Pola, a distinctive red and white bangle set worn by Bengali brides, represents marital status and is an integral part of Bengali wedding traditions.
Jhumkas, traditional bell-shaped earrings, are a staple in South Asian jewelry, especially in India and Pakistan. These earrings are often adorned with intricate patterns, gemstones, and precious metals, symbolizing grace and beauty. Their design varies widely, with golden ones often studded with pearls, being particularly popular in bridal jewelry.
Necklaces such as the Har and Mangalsutra are essentials. The Har, a traditional necklace made of beads, is often worn as part of bridal attire. The Mangalsutra, a sacred necklace worn by married Hindu women, features black beads and a gold pendant, symbolizing the marriage bond and the well-being of the husband and wife. Necklace sets are one of the most common pieces of celebratory jewelry in South Asian culture.
Nose Rings (Nath) are another key piece of jewelry, particularly worn by women in India and Pakistan. Made from gold and often adorned with gemstones, the nath is a symbol of femininity and grace. While traditionally worn by brides during weddings, nose rings have become a cherished accessory worn by many women on a day-to-day basis.
Maang Tikka, a decorative piece worn on the forehead, is another important element of South Asian bridal jewelry. With a chain and pendant that rests at the center of the hairline, the maang tikka is typically designed with precious stones such as diamonds and emeralds, adding a touch of elegance and beauty to an outfit.
Anklets (Payal or Padyan) are worn around the ankles and symbolize beauty and femininity. Often adorned with tiny bells, Payal is the term used in India and Pakistan, while Padyan is used in Sri Lanka. Anklets are traditionally worn by women during or festive occasions.
Rings in South Asia come in various forms, including the traditional Bichhua, a ring worn by brides in northern India on their toes, and modern engagement rings. Wedding rings are also increasingly popular in South Asia, blending traditional gold rings with Western styles.
Waist Chains (Kamarbandh) are worn around the waist, often seen in bridal or festive wear. These chains can range from simple to ornate and are made from gold, silver, and precious gemstones. The waist chain represents beauty and grace, making it the perfect finishing touch to a sari or lehenga, which are types of traditional wear.
Armlets (Bajuband), worn around the upper arm, are especially popular in North India and Rajasthan. Typically made of gold or silver, armlets are worn with traditional attire during special occasions. They symbolize marital status, adding an elegant and regal flair to a woman’s look.
Headpieces, such as those worn in Rajasthan, Punjab, and Mughal traditions, are elaborate jewelry pieces worn on the head. Sarpech, a jeweled ornament worn by men, is often seen in royal settings or during weddings. Women’s headpieces include chains that drape across the forehead to enhance hairstyles.
Finally, religious jewelry plays an important role in the spiritual lives of many South Asians. Panchalohas, made from five metals, are worn for protection and religious significance. Rudraksha Beads, sacred in Hinduism, are particularly worn by devotees of Lord Shiva as a symbol of devotion and protection.
The difference between silver and gold jewelry is also reflected in Desi culture. A lot of women tend to ask for gold jewelry from their parents or for dowry. One reason for this is because having gold is like an investment, so they always have a way to earn by selling them if they need it.
As South Asian women increasingly incorporate jewelry into their lives away from home, these pieces transcend their material value (which, as we’ve seen, is a recurring meaning within these jewelries), becoming pathways to their roots and a way to maintain a connection to their cultural identity.
In the ever-changing modern world, jewelry remains timeless, continuing to reflect a vibrant, diverse, and ever-evolving tradition that is as significant today as it was centuries ago. Through the glow of each carefully crafted piece, the spirit of South Asia lives on, bridging generations and uniting people across cultures and continents.
In the modern era, South Asian jewelry continues to thrive, balancing tradition with contemporary aesthetics. Heirloom pieces are treasured for their cultural significance, while modern adaptations have made traditional designs more accessible for everyday wear.