Have you ever tried a primeval drink fashioned from the gradual steeping of the Camellia sinensis? No? Well, what if I asked you if you’ve ever had green, oolong, or black tea? Both questions are the same: our understanding of what tea means, however, is not.
Camellia sinensis, more commonly known as the “tea plant,” can produce an infinite number of teas (if you can tell the difference that is) based on light exposure, region grown, water, time of cultivation, percentage of oxidation, and packaging process. Three widely known, distinct teas are green, oolong, and black. Green tea has a fresh, herbal taste as the leaves are not fermented and prevented from oxidation or fermentation. Different types of this tea are based on the exposure level to sunlight the leaves receive. For instance, matcha is a form of green tea, but the matcha leaves are grown under partial shade: this protects the amino acid theanine, giving matcha its umami flavor. Oolong tea uses partially fermented leaves; it is a careful balance of both black and green. It can vary based on percentage of oxidation: the more the leaves oxidize, the stronger the taste. Fully fermented/oxidized leaves become black tea. It has a strong, defined taste.
From Ancient China to Modern Asia: The Legacy of Lu Yu and the Evolution of Tea in Japan
工夫茶, or Gongfu cha, literally translates to “making tea with skill,” a term that originated with traditional Chinese tea ceremonies. Legend has it that tea was discovered in China around 5,000 years ago. Ancient Chinese writings reveal the cultural emphasis on water. Water is a symbol of Chinese philosophy and mythology. Ancient civilization was built around the Yangtze river, the third longest in the world. Water provided both nourishment and cultivation, as well as flooding and ruin. Due to its nature, water was believed to communicate the judgement of heaven to earth. Cultural emphasis on water, to no surprise, gave rise to tea.
Prior to the Tang Dynasty (690-705 CE), tea was seen as medicinal for its ability to calm and “make” people fall asleep. This was originally practiced in Buddhist monasteries, and with the rise of Buddhism in China from the Han (206 BCE to 220 CE) to the Tang Dynasty (618-907 CE) the practice of tea drinking gained traction. Soon, tea drinking became a craze, especially among the upper class.
The upper class collected tea sets made of various materials. But tea wasn’t loose-leaf as it is today; this tea was compact and required a tea master to properly prepare the drink. The art was practiced in an oligarchic manner, only a few masters had control over all tea production during the dynasty.
Out of this period, the famous story of Lu Yu aose. The comedic tale starts when he asks a soldier to fetch him water from the middle of the river. When presented with the water, Lu Yu immediately recognized that the water was not from the middle of the river and knocked over the jugs of water until half of it had spilled out. He then tasted the water again, this time from the bottom half, and proclaimed that this water was, in fact, from the middle of the river. The soldier was shocked: how had Lu Yu known that in procuring the water, half of it had spilled out and was replaced with water from the outskirts of the river?
The fable earned Lu Yu the title of the “God of Tea,” venerated for his fine placate that could distinguish the minute difference between water sources and leaves. It forever engraved his name into the art. His work is known as Cha Jing which translates to the “essential treatise of tea.”
Mongol invasions into China resulted in the fall of the Song, with them the Yuan Dynasty brought on changes in all aspects of Chinese life. For tea, this meant the diminution of tea ceremonies and the rise of loose-leaf tea, making the treasure of the elite more accessible and practical. It made tea a household commodity, regardless of class. While tea became accessible, the classes did not have the same drinks. Certain teas were valued over others based on water sources and types of leaves. Affluent Chinese families took pride in the expense and care devoted into making the perfect sip.
Some are still seen in traditional Chinese weddings. The tradition is for the young couple to kneel before their elders and serve them tea as a sign of great respect. The couple often receives gifts as a result.
The Chinese tradition was brought to Japan by Myōan Eisai, a Buddhist monk more commonly referred to as “Zen master Eisai.” Japanese traditions exclusively prepare and drink matcha. Japanese Chanoyu schools, scattered throughout the world, are dedicated to teaching the intricate art of hosting tea ceremonies both formal and informal. Chanoyus are held as an artisanal cultural experience to the curious public. Hosting requires years of study and training at one of the three schools of chanoyu derived from the Sen family (Omotesenke, Urasenke, Mushakojisenke). These schools follow the teachings of Sen Rikyu, a buddhist monk who wrote The Way of Tea. Sen wrote about the four principles of tea: Wa, Kei, Sei, and Jaku (harmony, respect, purity, and tranquility). Formal events require modest clothing, the proper equipment, a natural setting, and a traditional seiza (kneeling with your posterior resting on your feet and ankles) sitting position. Informal gatherings (chakai) serve usucha, or thin matcha. Formal gatherings (kaiseki) last for several hours often including a multi course meal, drinking koicha, or thick matcha. Usucha and koicha differ in the concentration of matcha powder and preparation method, koicha is around four times more concentrated than usucha.
The Rise and Fall of Tea in Britain: From Colonial Roots to a Cultural Decline
Tea, though not as popular as it once was, is a staple in many cultures around the world, namely the British. With the rise of trading across Eurasia, tea became an exotic luxury during the 17th century in Holland, Netherlands, and in particular, Portugal. It quickly became the favored drink of the princess of Portugal, Catherine of Braganza. She would later marry King Charles II, and tea was included as part of her wedding dowry. Her love of tea created a part of British culture that has endured to this day. The poet Edmund Waller wrote about the princess and her tea in a 1633 poem entitled, ‘On Tea.’
Venus her Myrtle, Phoebus has his bays;
Tea both excels, which she vouchsafes to praise.
The best of Queens, the best of herbs, we owe
To that bold nation which the way did show
To the fair region where the sun doth rise,
Whose rich productions we so justly prize.
The Muse’s friend, tea does our fancy aid,
Regress those vapours which the head invade,
And keep the palace of the soul serene,
Fit on her birthday to salute the Queen.
Labeled as the “Queen’s favorite drink,” the Chinese product grew in demand. British thirst for tea drove the expansion of its influence, festering into Asia.
As Britain expanded its colonial empire, they brought tea to their colonies, including to North America. When the 13 colonies rejected British rule and the monarchy, they also rejected the drink associated with the imperialist regime. Coffee, the alternative, gained popularity over tea.
The popularization of modern mega drink chains such as Dunkin Donuts and Starbucks further pushed tea out of the limelight, replacing it with coffee. The warm drink was relegated to the household.
Today, this is seen in tea stalwart Britain. British culture, famous for its love of tea, has changed. Cafes became popular in part because they have something the average Brit doesn’t have at home: an espresso machine. Fancy coffees with elegant foamy white swans are now prized over the two-minute make-at-home milky tea. According to a 2023 survey by Italian home appliances brand, De’Longhi, 56% of Brits now prefer coffee over tea. Even more worrying, the recent fall into administration of Typhoo Tea, the 1903 classic British tea brand, by Supreme (a vapes, drinks, and batteries manufacturer based in Manchester) in November 2024. From its humble beginnings in 1903 to becoming a staple in British homes, Typhoo’s rich history and eventual turnover marked the end of an era for Britain’s relationship with tea. It’s clear that tea may be a staple in the house, but its presence in out-and-out life is irrevocably altered.
One of the leading international tea experts worldwide, Jane Pettigrew has been a part of the industry since opening a tearoom in South London in 1983. Pettigrew is now an acclaimed author of over six books and co-founder of the UK tea academy (among her other accolades). She advocates for the uses of tea beyond the drink, and teaches online classes for tea enthusiasts.
Pettigrew makes an important point about this plant, noting, “we can never ever say that we have learnt all there is to know – there is always something more to know, new teas to taste and evaluate, new locations to explore where tea is now being grown.” In a way, she’s right: as long as the spark of wonder and curiosity persists, it will endure. Whether it is in China, Japan, or Britain, tea has a place anywhere it’s wanted. The meaning of tea is ultimately defined by the consumer. As Pettigrew asserts, ”It really doesn’t matter how they drink their tea – what matters is that tea has a place in everyone’s life.”
You can call it a tragic declension and westernization of Eurasian culture or the fall of a drink associated with the colonialist intentions of Europe; but you can also marvel in awe of a seemingly primordial drink that has evolved into too many variations to count. Tea has become a cultural phenomenon that connects us across oceans, nations, and time.
From its humble beginnings in 1903 to becoming a staple in British homes, Typhoo’s rich history and eventual turnover marked the end of an era for Britain’s relationship with tea. It’s clear that tea may be a staple in the house, but its presence in out-and-out life is irrevocably altered.